I had planned a five-night trip to Tauranga, Gisborne, and back to Napier via Wairoa, leaving Napier on Tuesday. Come Monday morning I was ready to go - bag packed, house tidied, fridge emptied, the weather playing ball, so decided to just get up and go. I booked a discounted last-minute rate at Trinity Wharf Tauranga and headed off.
After a long drive, the wharf side location was a treat, right beside the harbour bridge, on the water, perfect for a glass of wine. The hotel was empty due to the sudden Auckland Covid lockdown. I’d tried to book for my entire stay in Tauranga a few weeks ago and couldn’t get a room.
TWO
For breakfast, I chose the popular Elizabeth Street Cafe & Larder. My good, strong Karajoz had an odd aftertaste. Where is my husband's finely tuned palate when I need it? To me, it was just a good strong coffee with a weird taste. The menu was the usual breakfast fare. I chose the avo on toast with marinated feta which arrived with a welcome sprinkle of dukkha, but I think the avo was pre-mashed and had that sour 'turned' taste.
This morning's activity was McLaren Falls, 15 minutes out of Tauranga, so with walking shoes on I was off to explore. This considerable park has a mixture of leafy trees, bushwalks, a huge lake, and well-established walking paths. I spent an easy couple of hours wandering the lake paths and walking out to the waterfall. I was the only one in the park, aside from the ducks and geese. I'd love to return in Autumn and enjoy the park even more.
On the way back into the city I called into Tauranga Crossing to try an award-winning pie from Patrick's Pies. I wouldn’t have given the steak and veg the gold, just saying. Things I have to do in the name of research!
Before an afternoon of roaming the CBD, I checked into my next accommodation, the Clarence Hotel, in Tauranga's historic post office. It was dark, quirky, and grand, reminding me a little of the QT brand. Again thanks to Covid, I was upgraded as most of their guests had stayed in Auckland and scored a large room with lovely views.
The town centre and waterfront were quiet, maybe because it was midweek. 'Our Place' was fun - stacked containers housing artists, clothes designers, a bar, and food windows serving everything from mexican to dumplings. I enjoyed fantastic pulled pork tacos from two Mexican lads who tried to explain the making of their black masa corn tortillas.
The Art Gallery was installing a new exhibition and only had one room open for viewing, a display of 50 white ceramic heads. That was it. After wandering the waterfront for a while, I drove to a bakery and cafe I'd read about called The Whipped Baker - fantastic name - in the Historic Village, only to find it closed. So disappointed. I thought the Village might be an original, crumbling part of old Tauranga, but it seemed purpose-built to look old-timey kind of place, a bit like a theme park. Maybe I misunderstood it; perhaps it's better on a busy weekend.
Much more successful was a pre-dinner Italian aperitif, bitter and lemony in the gorgeous outside bar at The Clarence. I met friends for dinner at Sugo, a new and delicious Italian close to my hotel. This pedestrianised area of Wharf Street is newish, and while it looked abandoned during the day, at night, it was festively bright with globe lighting and more people than I'd seen in the whole of the CBD all day.
THREE
Last night poured with rain and was still going this morning. I walked to one of my researched and recommended cafes - nope. Back to the hotel for a delicious breakfast and a disappointing Lavazza coffee.
Mount Maunganui was on todays agenda for exploring, walking, and shopping. The Mount was bustling with foreign accents, shorts, and singlets - a summer beach vibe, even with the rain. Most establishments were taking their Covid management seriously with dedicated in and out lanes, even road cones. One store manager quietly asked if shoppers (I fell into the store, uneven pavement) had signed in because there were 'some Aucklander's around'. Delivered in a stage whisper.
The General cafe was my choice for a quick lunch of warm grilled pita, haloumi, lentils ,and kale. I felt so virtuous that I had to stop in at the legendary Elspeth bakery for a custard slice. Size of a brick. I’d love to say I didn’t finish it but … Definitely one to stop in again for breakfast or lunch; their cabinet food looked so good.
I spent the afternoon a little out of Tauranga at the Te Puna Quarry Park, with its sweet, well-cared-for areas to explore like herb gardens, bushwalks, and kids' play area.
On the way back into Tauranga, I drove up to Minden Lookout, five minutes from the Quarry, for stunning views across the Mount and coast.
Back to the city and a quick walk around The Elms, an important historical site with beautiful buildings and grounds. As they were closing up, this one is back on the to-do list.
FOUR
I stayed the night in a Papamoa Airbnb a block from the beach, close enough to hear the waves crashing. I heard a loud bang somewhere during the night - that was the earthquake! I didn't think much of it and fell back asleep. My house in Napier shook for over three minutes, according to my neighbour. Glad I missed that experience.
Because everything seemed ok and settled, I pressed ahead with my drive to Gisborne via Whakatane and Opotiki. The drive from Papamoa down the East Coast was sunny and beautiful, right alongside the ocean and low dunes, the sea smooth and calm. The first tsunami alert I received said there was a slight risk to the east coast, so I continued driving. Then another, saying if you can leave the area, do so now. I continued driving. Then another saying LEAVE NOW in capitals, red letters, and exclamation marks, and that’s when I got a little nervous. I was half an hour out from Whakatane and still right next to the ocean. When I reached Matama, I pulled up, heard the siren going off, and checked my phone, reading that Matama was in the LEAVE NOW zone!
Cars were pulling over to the side of the road, then peeling off and legging it. I joined them and turned into the first road I came to that went inland and away from the ocean. That led to a community hall where the locals had gathered, but I decided to drive to Rotorua and home. I'd had enough adventuring for one week.
When I arrived back in Napier, it was blue sky, a gorgeous 28-degree day. The ocean had remained calm. I was thankful no one was harmed or property damaged, given the severity of the quake. East Cape and Gisborne, you're back on my to-do list!