When visiting friends in Taupo and Rotorua recently, I took the opportunity to cross a couple of things off my Taupo to-do list. When I arrived in Taupo Friday morning, thick fog still blanketed the lake. With time to kill, I warmed up with Replete cafe's oat and chia porridge.
By the time I'd finished catching up with my friend, the fog had lifted, and it had warmed a little, perfect for a bike ride. After a quick google for e-bike beginner paths, I decided on the Huka Falls to Aratiatia Dam Trail. Three times daily, 80,000 tons of water is released over 15-minutes, changing the placid river into raging rapids. I had enough time to bike the 8km there in time for the 2 pm show, then bike the 8km or so back, a two-hour loop in total. A picturesque meander down a riverbank, how hard could that be?
I rented an e-bike close to Huka Falls. The guide asked if I’d ridden an e-bike before, and I was like, sure, I have one at home. What I wish he’d asked was, have you ridden mountain bike trails before?
He gave me a skinny, full-suspension mountain bike that looked nothing like my solid e-bike. He explained how the gears and electrics worked, then produced a map of the trail. With a finger, he traced the path from start to finish. It began with a squiggly part and what he described as "a bit of a steep, gnarly climb" then straightened out for a while, ending in more squiggles. He gave me three other instructions, to which I solemnly nodded along too.
One, do not use the first part of the track because it's slippery and dangerous due to recent rain, stick to the road; two, after you cross the lookout bridge, take the left path. The right takes you back into Taupo, and is difficult; three, at this bridge (pointing vaguely on the map), go under, not over.
Equipped with a helmet, gloves, and water bottle, I set off and proceeded to do nearly everything that I was told not to do.
I biked down the roadway towards the Falls, quickly came to a blue stick indicating a path into the bush, and thought, hmm, shouldn't I be on the road longer than this? A biker coming towards me pointed towards the blue stick (in reality, they were probably pointing down the roadway), so I turned onto the trail I'd been told not to take.
It immediately plunged down a twisty, muddy mountain bike track, not a lot wider than my tyres. I began to bolt downwards, around short, tight corners, working the hell out of the brakes. It was a shocker of a beginning. I didn’t know whether to speed up for traction or slow down because it was so slippery. Whenever I slowed down, I would slide into branches and feel out of control. I tried both feet dragging on the ground while the bike dragged me along - yeah, that didn't work. There was some fantastic swearing during those few minutes I hurtled down.
I crashed out from the bottom of the track straight onto the busy Huka Falls viewing platform. Nothing to be done but to calmly hop off the bike, like I’d been doing it forever, and take photos like everyone else. While inside my head, I’m thinking, “What the …. was that? Am I mountain biking?”
After letting the impressive Falls soothe my frazzled nerves, I thought - I can do this. Let's give it a shot. Surely it can't get any scarier. So I hopped back on, rode across the bridge straight into mistake number two.
A little way after the bridge, there's a large map of the area, and underneath, tiny blue arrows indicating the trail directions. I was so intent on keeping my eyes forward and on what I was doing, I barely glanced at the map. I was told to go left, onto the Grade 2 beginner trail. I went right, onto the Grade 3 Intermediate trail.
I immediately began to climb a steep goat track - I took this to be the steep, gnarly climb. It was all a bit intense trying to navigate the obstacles - tree roots, rocks, low branches, wooden platforms, and berms. Do I ride over or around things? When should I speed up or slow down? I just kept pedalling and pushing, bumping, and skidding along. The trail twisted and zigzagged up. At more than one hairpin bend, I stopped to tiptoe the bike and me around it. What must I have looked like? Spot the newbie. I admired the beautiful river and Huka Park Lodge far below, but I didn’t stop often. Anyway, if I did stop, my glasses fogged up.
After what felt like long minutes, I heard another bike coming up behind me and pulled to the side. Well, not the side, because it was too narrow. I just stopped. Luckily it was another guide from the bike shop who said, “Umm, what are you doing up here? You’re going the wrong way”. I laughed it off with, “Oh well, it’s my first time on a mountain bike track, guess I need the practice” He said, “Well, you’re doing great. This is an intermediate track”.
While mad at myself, there was nothing to be done except to continue going forward. Following slowly behind the guide, I emerged at the top of the track, where I was sent back down the mountain to start again. It was easier going down because I was away from the gorge, but it was still a quick, steep descent. I slid and stumbled my way back down, arms straining from being clamped to the brakes.
Arriving back at the map, I took the left trail, straight into the gnarly uphill climb. Once that was over, the path widened, and I found myself grinning and enjoying flying around and over things. This path took in the sights of the peaceful river, geothermal power station, and prawn park.
I wobbled over this narrow bridge twice, thanks to my wrong turn
The track levelled out onto farmland with a skinny path lined with grabby gorse bushes. I was grateful to be wearing long pants and sleeves. I came to 'the bridge' which was enormous, I wouldn't have missed it, and this time did as I was told - under, not over - and stayed on the right path.
Because of the wrong turn, I reached the dam 15 minutes late. Water was still tumbling through the gates and the rapids boiling, but I was disappointed to have missed the beginning. A minute or two after I arrived, the gates closed, and everything quietened down.
After a short rest and wondering if I could face another hour of the same, I checked the map, relieved to note the trail back was straight most of the way. This direction was an easier, faster ride, and I relaxed my shoulders and soaked it up. I rode over scrubby flats, past the geothermal power station with its enormous, steaming pipelines, and a brief section of the cool, quiet Redwoods forest.
Leading into the Redwood forest
My favourite part of the ride was the surprise appearance of a geothermal stream. The water varied between icy blue and green, but the steam was a constant reminder of its temperature. The trail followed the shallow stream for a short time, and I stopped a couple of times to watch it twisting in and out of the banks and running under a couple of tiny bridges.
Finishing my ride, I melted off the bike, sweaty, muddy, and exhausted. I asked the guide if there were any basics I should have known before my first ride and, yeah - everything I had issues with; braking, obstacles, and speed. He told me the trick to avoiding the rocks and tree roots - of which I felt like I hit every single one - is to look around or beyond the obstacle, don't look at it. I just rode over everything in my path.
I'm so chuffed I did that ride even if I was damn sore for a day or two, and I'm going to explore mountain biking back in Napier. The Taupo guide suggested taking a run or two with a guide to learn the basics. I'm sold.
Thankfully, Wairakei thermal pools are a five minute drive from the park, and I drove straight there for a long soak. There are three pools, ranging from 38 to 43 degrees. The complex is beautifully maintained, tucked into private bush and eucalyptus trees. I padded around, water up to my ears, finding little pockets of hot then cooler water. After warming up, I headed back into Taupo to meet up with a friend. Fortuitously, our accommodation was opposite the Two Mile Bay Sailing Club, renowned for its wood-fired pizza and lake-side location. Great, no driving, and close enough to stumble home if need be. We relaxed with tasty pizza, warmth from flickering fire pits, live music, and easy company.
TWO We wrapped up warm and took ourselves to Spoon and Paddle for breakfast. The cafe is a short walk from the bustle of the town centre, in a sunny yellow villa. I ordered shakshuka, which was different from what I was expecting. They serve the poached eggs on cold hummus with spicy tomato sauce spooned over the top. The eggs were perfectly poached and the accompanying flatbread warm and generously portioned, but I would have preferred a more traditional take. Next time I'll try the Gingerbread French Toast, which is their signature dish. The Hummingbird flat white was adequate, the service sweet and efficient. We browsed some quirky shops on HeuHeu Street while the morning warmed up before I drove to Rotorua, where I spent the day catching up with friends and wandering Okere Falls park. Back in Taupo, I stopped for takeout from Pauley's Diner. I enjoyed a fried chicken & honey mustard burger (better than it may sound), thick, crunchy, and larger than my hand, more than enough for me. And, made a mental note of how good the loaded fries looked going out in their red baskets - next time.
THREE It didn't seem right to leave Taupo without doing something geothermal, and Orakei Korako was top of my list. It's one of the most active geothermal areas in NZ, so I was guaranteed to see something steamy. But coffee first. Baked with Love are famous for their doughnuts and serve Coffee Supreme, win-win. Their two cabinets were full of gorgeous homemade food, with a good range of indulgent, gluten-free, and keto items. The DIY gingerbread men were cute, each with a paintbrush and tiny containers of edible glitter, lollies, and sprinkles. Likewise, the old-school rectangles of homemade toffee in twisted white paper. I liked the mix of high ceilings with exposed industrial pipes and the green plants and twinkling lights, which softened the space.My flat white was so good I had two (unheard of!), and I appreciated well seasoned herby scrambled eggs on homemade sourdough. This cafe takes the prize for their friendly, efficient service, the cutest wifi password (#Doughtnuts), and a soundtrack I recognised; Panic at the Disco, Fun, and Fall Out Boy. I'm already regretting not trying the Doughnut French Toast with marscapone.
Orakei Korako is a 20-minute drive north of Taupo. The information given about what to expect at the park and how to catch the ferry back is very clear. The ferry runs on demand from both sides - there's no schedule.
There's one boardwalk that loops the park, visiting every feature so you can't get lost and you won't miss anything. In the first two zones, the boardwalk is often over the hot crust - makes for warm ankles. The park begins with the alien-like landscape of the Emerald Terrace, where 20 million litres of water each day flows, trickles, and bubbles over the silica terrace. It was a surprising area with steam erupting here and there and a waterfall suddenly pouring from a cliff that lasted a handful of minutes. Two unpredictable geysers, Diamond and Sapphire, are somewhere on this terrace but didn't show up for me.
The next area, the Golden Fleece, is quieter though steamier. The Wairiri geyser shows off hourly, turning its surroundings into a sauna.
Different coloured algae flourish side by side, resulting from different water temperatures
The Artist's Pallet was my favourite zone, an aptly named landscape of swirling pastels and vivid greens and blues. This is the most dangerous and unpredictable zone in the park, owing to its thin crust, barely 20mm thick in places.
From here, the park becomes an enjoyable, quiet walk back to the beginning via the Ruatapu Caves and Mud-pools (one small area). There are a few stairs around this higher area, but the good news is you either climb up or down them and only have to go one way. Walking back through the bush was quiet and peaceful, with drifts of white steam rising here and there and the occasional 'pfft' of a vent near your feet.
The hour I spent at the park was peaceful, beautiful, and warm. There's an awareness of activity happening all around and under your feet. When visiting, I'd suggest a couple of things. Layer up because it gets understandably warm. Wear sneakers or suitable footwear as the boardwalk alternates with packed earth at times. Visit in the morning to beat the crowds. While it's not a strenuous activity, you do get warm, and there's no water or bathrooms in the park so maybe take a bottle of water with you. With time for one more activity on the way home, I headed to L'Arte Cafe & Gallery in Acacia Bay, 10 minutes from town. The cafe was bursting with lucky Sunday brunch-ers, but I was here for the outdoor mosaic living room. It's a very photogenic, and for me, tactile space; I spent ages running my hands over everything. I wasn't the only one, so I didn't look too odd. I couldn't begin to imagine the painstaking work that went into its creation and assembly. The colours are vibrant and strong - it's simply stunning.
The garden roams around the gallery and cafe, with pockets of ceramics and artworks tucked in corners and garden beds, in trees, and behind gates.
Time to refuel (coffee + food) at Industrie French Kitchen, the best-located pitstop on the way in, out, or past Taupo. Tucked between the Z petrol station and Mitre10 at Tauhara, the cafe is open daily, with filled baguettes, pastries, flans, and croissants. I enjoyed a light and flaky plain croissant while waiting for my coffee, Tauranga brand Fixation (a tad on the weak side but not too bad).
Taupo lakeside and town, where I mostly hung out, was vast and open, all that lake and sky. The streets are clean and wide, the town and lakefront groomed and well presented. While I can, I'm going to visit often for short, snacky bites. I could find something to do for a day or a weekend and barely scratch the surface of my to-do list.